Castel Gandolfo & The Pope’s Summer Palace Gardens

Castel Gandolfo — Papal summer residence private day trip

Castel Gandolfo — a small medieval town twenty-five kilometres south of Rome, perched on the lip of the volcanic crater of Lake Albano — has been the summer residence of the popes since Urban VIII bought the medieval Castello Savelli in 1623. For three hundred and ninety years, the papal palace and its gardens were … Read more

The 3-Hour Rome Sprint: A Luxury Layover Itinerary

Private chauffeur service — Mercedes-Benz S-Class

Travellers connecting through Rome with a four-hour layover at Fiumicino airport often dismiss the idea of seeing the city as impossible. They are wrong — but only by a narrow margin. The honest answer is that a Roman layover of less than four hours from gate to gate is impossible; a layover of four hours, … Read more

Rome’s Rooftop Aperitivo Trail: 5 Exclusive Hotel Terraces

Colosseum at night — Rome

Rome’s most discreet luxury at the moment of golden hour is not a tasting menu or a private museum opening — it is the four to five hotel rooftop terraces that open between 18:30 and 19:30, are reserved for hotel guests and a small ring of in-the-know Romans, and overlook the city from heights that … Read more

Vatican Gardens by Private Golf Cart: A Hidden Eden

St Peter's Square — Vatican City

The Vatican Gardens occupy fifty-five hectares of the Vatican Hill — fountains by Bramante and Vignola, the four niche-statues of the Casina of Pius IV, a working vegetable garden that supplies the Apostolic Palace, the medieval Tower of John VIII, the modern Lourdes Grotto presented by France in 1902, and the small Ethiopian seminary garden … Read more

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj: A Living Princely Collection

Pauline Borghese as Venus — Canova

Of all Rome’s great galleries, the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is the only one whose owners still live above it. The Doria Pamphilj — an extraordinary patrician dynasty descended from the Genoese admiral Andrea Doria and from Pope Innocent X — open the four wings of their family palace to visitors every morning from 09:00, and … Read more

Casino Pallavicini’s Aurora: Guido Reni’s Ceiling Open One Day a Month

Sacred and Profane Love — Titian

There is a Roman ceiling that ranks, in the small canon of European Baroque painting, alongside the Sistine and the Galleria Farnese — and that opens to the public exactly one morning a month, by appointment, for three hours. It is Guido Reni’s Aurora, painted between 1612 and 1614 on the ceiling of the small … Read more

Vicus Caprarius: The City Beneath Trevi

Old master drawings (collector reference)

Nine metres below the Trevi Fountain, behind a small bronze door on the Vicolo del Puttarello, lies an entire fragment of Imperial Rome that almost no one above ground knows: the Vicus Caprarius, the «City of Water» — a four-storey Roman insula, an open cistern of the Acqua Vergine aqueduct, and a private museum that … Read more

Galleria Sciarra: Rome’s Secret Liberty Jewel

Piazza Navona — Rome

Ninety seconds on foot from the basin of the Trevi Fountain — through a narrow opening in a palazzo most visitors never look at twice — opens one of the strangest and most beautiful interiors in Rome: the Galleria Sciarra, a glass-roofed Liberty arcade decorated, ceiling to capital, with allegorical frescoes of the modern Italian … Read more

The Terrace of the Gods: Rome’s Highest Hidden Viewpoint

Roman Forum — Rome

Almost every visitor to Rome photographs the Vittoriano — the white marble monument that closes Piazza Venezia like a wedding cake — and almost no one knows that you can ride a glass elevator to its roof and stand on the highest accessible terrace in the historic centre. Romans call it the Terrazza delle Quadrighe, … Read more